Bubbling with a passion for food, Indian-born British chef Asma Khan stormed into the male-dominated culinary world with The Darjeeling Kitchen, a pan-Asian restaurant in London, in 2017. In a conversation with Travel+Leisure India & South Asia at the sixth edition of the Food For Thought fest in New Delhi, the cookbook author recounts her journey, challenges, and the power of food.
Excerpts from the interview with Chef Asma Khan:
T+L India: How was the experience of setting up your restaurant, The Darjeeling Express, in London, especially as a woman of colour?
Asma Khan: I didn’t think of it as a big project. It grew organically from a supper club at my home to a small pop-up, to eventually a restaurant. If I sat back and pondered over opening a restaurant, I probably would not have done it because it’s such a crazy idea! At The Darjeeling Express, we have an all-women kitchen. I wanted women who could cook with patience, love, and happiness without relying on measurements. It wasn’t a political thing. Whether you’re brown or white, we are always going to have a disadvantage as women. But I am not running the same race as a white woman. I am jumping hurdles, going through hoops, and crossing obstacles that she may not even see. I’ve never faced any straightforward racism; it’s very subtle. It’s more of a prejudice against the cuisine. People often feel that other cuisines are more sophisticated. To them, Indian food should be cheap and cheerful.
T+L India: You were recently appointed as the chef advocate for the United Kingdom by UN World Food Programme. What does this new role mean to you?
Asma Khan: I’m deeply honoured to be appointed this role—it’s a big position, especially for a home cook! I’ve always spoken about hunger and injustice. I thought if I need to make food my life, I must feed the hungry.
T+L India: Your latest cookbook, Ammu, draws inspiration from your relationship with your mother. How did you shorlist the recipes to be included?
Asma Khan: It was an emotional journey. The recipes just came to my mind when I was writing. First, I wrote the entire prose of the book followed by the recipes. It made the process a lot easier.
T+L India: ‘Organic’ is increasingly becoming the buzzword in the culinary industry. What’s your take on it?
Asma Khan: Organic is elitism. Today, organic food comes at a cost, which only a few can pay. The poor would rather have their children go to bed on a full stomach than eat a small organic meal. Earth is being destroyed by mass agriculture and processing. Organic should be about being careful about what you’re doing to the soil.
Quick Questions
Favourite cookbook author: Nigella Lawson
Favourite cuisine other than Indian: Afghani
Culinary destination on your bucket list: Lebanon, Beiru
Related: “I’ve Always Wanted To See The Taj!” — Chef Ton Of Michelin-Starred Restaurant Le Du, Bangkok
Bayar Jain
Senior Content Manager
Equipped with a degree in Sociology (Honours) from the University of Delhi and a postgraduate diploma in English Journalism and Mass Communication from Xavier Institute of Communications, Mumbai, Bayar enjoys sharing stories of people, places, and different cultures. When not typing her travel tales, you can catch the hobbyist photographer capturing the next frame, dabbling in arts and crafts, or gushing over puppies and kittens.
