India is undoubtedly a land of various cultures, the most striking glimpse of which can be seen in the range of weaves crafted in the country. This National Handloom Day, we pay homage to the weaver community of India by chalking out some lesser-known handwoven textiles. By Bayar Jain
National Handloom Day
1. Kani, Kashmir
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Considered one of the oldest handicrafts of Kashmir—possibly dating to the Mughal era of the region—Kani is an intricate pattern usually found in pashmina shawls. These time-consuming designs featuring flora and fauna motifs could take months to complete, with a maximum of one inch per day. Needles made of cane or wood are used to weave singular threads in a coded pattern called talim. This talim then guides the weaver to string together designs in coloured wefts. These shawls are often regarded as signs of luxury, owing to the intensive labour and craftsmanship of the interlocking twill tapestry technique involved in the weave.
2. Patteda Anchu, Karnataka
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Juxtaposing weaves of its neighbouring states, this South Indian handloom is renowned for its simplicity. Once offered as a gift to temple dancers (devdasis) in the 10th century, modern-day Patteda Anchu is known for its vivid borders and checkered patterns. Usually made on cotton fabrics, the name is a hint of its signature designs: patte meaning strip, which in this case is a border along the whole fabric. Traditional patterns of this weave used to only be available in red and mustard, however, a riot of colours are now increasingly available.
3. Bomkai, Odisha
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Named after its place of origin, Bomkai or Sonepuri brings together two of the state’s most popular weaving components: ikat (a wispy patterned weave), and use of weft. Some believe that this weave dates back to 600 BC, passing from one generation to another along the way. Traditionally worn during auspicious rituals, the contrasting colours of this fabric are marked by intricate thread work of nature-inspired motifs. A jaala weaving technique—wherein the designs are first interwoven on a frame with thread—meets traditional ikat designs to give rise to Bomkai weaves, which can be found in cotton and silk variations, both.
4. Tangaliya, Gujarat
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Made by the Dangasia community of Gujarat, the 700-year-old indigenous craft is native to the Surendranagar district of the state. Woven in home-based pit looms and knotted with colourful threads, the end result creates a ‘raised dot’ effect—a pattern signature to this weave. However, other geometric patterns such as circles, lines, or even hyperbolas have started finding a space in the patterns.
5. Puan, Mizoram
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Handlooms are an integral part of the Mizo culture, and Puan weaves are the most prominent of them. Usually worn during festivals and special occasions, the base of the attire is usually white with splashes of reds, greens and blacks. While there are a lot of variations in the weave, each colour, motif and design used is known to have a cultural significance. First woven predominantly on a loin loom, the fabric is later stitched together to complete the textiles. The result? A colourful, raised ribbed effect guaranteed to transfix!
Related: #TnlSupportsLocal: These Fabrics Have Been In India Longer Than You Can Imagine
Bayar Jain
Senior Content Manager
Equipped with a degree in Sociology (Honours) from the University of Delhi, and a post graduate diploma in English Journalism and Mass Communication from Xavier Institute of Communications, Mumbai, Bayar enjoys sharing stories of people, places, and different cultures. When not typing her travel tales, you can catch the hobbyist photographer capturing the next frame, dabbling in arts and crafts, or gushing over puppers and kittens.
