Peppered with typical Bengali vibes in all nooks and crannies, and doused in deliciousness across each dish, New Delhi’s The Tangra Project is sure to help recreate Kolkata’s signature laid-back vibes. By Bayar Jain
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With a name like The Tangra Project, it’s only natural to assume that the restaurant will bring Kolkata’s quintessential hakka noodles and ‘Chindian’ dishes to the table. I, too, think the same as I walk through New Delhi’s DLF Avenue, Saket—where the new restaurant is located.
Located at a corner of COMMONS at DLF Avenue’s ground floor, this dining space screams ‘different’. For one, I instantly notice the lack of doors, enhancing the restaurant’s alluring easy-to-enter policy. A chaat trolley standing front and centre doubles as another magnet. Chef Vikramjit Roy, of Hello Panda fame in Gurugram, greets me. And, at once, chef begins to unearth the detailing and vision of his new venture.
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Pointing towards the signboard and logo, he reveals, “These [symbols on the logo] are the four pillars on which our restaurant stands: the first motif—depicting the sun, potato, and greens—describes our commitment towards the environment; the second—the fish, snails, and sea vegetables—showcase our responsibility towards sustainable fishing; third, a chicken, denotes our commitment towards cage-free poultry and sustainably-sourced meats; and fourth—a wok and fire—depict the importance of the kitchen.” To my left is a walk-in bar, a first for the city’s malls, while up ahead is a maze-like cobbled flooring with lines leading to the various seatings. The bright, colourful walls come painted with two fish: one regular fish spanning three walls, while the other—visible only you enter through its direct door up the back—is a puffer dressed in a hat and monocle to match. Up and centre is a glass-walled kitchen, easing my worries of hygiene instantly.
I begin my Kolkata culinary adventure with parwal guacamole with chips. The thin, crisps pair well with the surprisingly-delicious parval guacamole. Its herbaceous flavours compel me to go in for seconds, thirds, and more—by the end of which, I’m happily licking the guac sans chips. The stir-fried water chestnuts in Tangra chili sauce, too, result in a similar feeling. The bite of the water chestnuts is perfect; its flavour accentuated further with the sweet-spicy sauce. The other table-top condiments also catch my eye. Although all the dips are created in-house, its the pungent kasundi that steals the show for me. The bhut jholokia comes a close-second.
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The chena paturi follows next. Cased within a banana leaf, the soft chena—a flavour I don’t ordinarily like—leaves me pleasantly surprised. Almost melt-in-mouth consistency, and its crumbling texture refreshes my palate. When paired with the sweet tamarind chutney, the flavours don another dimension. The showstopper, however, is the mustard paste smeared over the leaves before the dish is steamed. Not only does it pack the dish with abundant likeable pungency, but it also brings wholesome smells and lingering wafts to the table. The banana flower chop, according to me, could do with a bit of a sour-kick. With many small plates now devoured, I wash it down with a Tangra Virgin Mary, and let freshness sweep over me.
The first dish of the main course, kancha kola kofta with luchi, sings familiar Bengali flavours. The raw banana dumplings swim in a pool of light gravy while the luchi does its job of being the sturdy scooper well. The Tangra Project’s variation of the Goan xacuti adds an Anglo-Indian dimension to the multi-page menu.
Despite a full stomach, my eyes pop out on seeing the desserts. The Rose is artwork on a plate with a fun, playful factor to add to the theatrics. The pink rose-flavoured foam cuts through the sweet, custard-like base. It’s the fresh shards of ice-cold rose—broken at the table with a little tap against the plate—that amps the flavour profile. One last scoop, and I’ve found myself lost in thought, dreaming of a holiday in Kolkata. Till then, I decide to let The Tangra Project serve as my ticket to the City of Joy.
Address: Unit No. 154-159 Commons, DLF Avenue, Saket, New Delhi
Timings: Monday to Sunday, 12:00 pm to 11:30 pm
Contact: +91 8929925253
Cost for two: INR 1,200 (without alcohol)
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