The food at Neuma is delicious, the vibe is upbeat and the interiors are gram-worthy. Come for the food, and also stay for the views! By Arzoo Dina
As you walk into Neuma, the latest addition to Mumbai’s fine dining scene, you’re enveloped in a sense of calm. Located a stone’s throw away from the cacophony of Colaba Causeway, you might easily recognise this charming bungalow which was once home to the much-loved restaurant Indigo, helmed by Rahul Akerkar.
Now after a hiatus of several years, the stately bungalow has taken on new life, housing a spanking new restaurant done up in neutral hues; one that, we think, is set to become the latest hotspot in town. Neuma is film director Karan Johar’s maiden foray into the hospitality industry. It is launched in partnership with Bunty Sajdeh, CEO of Cornerstone Sport and Dharma Cornerstone Agency, and True Palate Café Pvt. Ltd. which runs restaurants like One8 Commune with a presence in multiple Indian cities.
The Ambience
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I walk in on a balmy weekday evening for an early dinner. Quite a few tables are occupied already. As I enter Neuma, I see the pebbled Garden Cafe, offering a relaxed vibe; a coffee bar complete with a striped cabana; and a long communal table that’s perfect for a leisurely brunch. Walk in further and I reach the Sun Porch, a quaint area with a slanting glass roof that floods the sun-dappled space with natural light. And just beyond is The Courtyard, a breezy spot that’s the centre of all the action, with tall potted palms, antique ceiling fans and sleek seating. To the extreme left is an outdoor section called Safari which aims to transport diners to a tropical jungle.
Rather than settling in and ordering drinks, I decide to do a quick walk-around of the expansive space. Designed by renowned architect and interior designer Ashiesh Shah, each corner of the villa is distinctly unique with plenty of character — almost like a glamorous vacation abode.
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On one end, just off the courtyard, is the Rose Bar with its sultry red lighting, fringed cushions, flowerbeds packed with roses, a slick bar and ornate decor accents. On the other side is a section called The Blanc. It has a distinctly relaxed vibe and is filled with collectibles housed in glass cases—wooden dolls sourced from Nagaland, antique memoirs, handwritten letters, paintings and more. Just beyond, sage green curtains reveal a private dining nook called Verde, which is adorned in soothing tones and a show-stopping Guccha Light, Shah’s signature lighting that features a cluster of lingams, suspended mid-air, projecting light down and out.
On the upper level of Neuma is an expansive black roof deck named The Bawa. The space is an ode to Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa, with lots of green accents. Adjacent to this is Bar Nautica, which, as the name suggests, is navy-themed. It’s a cheery space done up in hues of white, nautical blue and reminiscent of a yacht deck.
The Food
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The bar menu at Neuma has been developed by Countertop India, one of India’s well-known bar and beverage companies. The menu focusses on the use of techniques like sous vide and clarified cocktails. And so, I start the meal with drinks, requesting the head mixologist Gunjan to whip up concoctions that are ideal for the hot weather. I sample Canterbury Summers, a refreshing mocktail with elderflower, fresh lime juice and orange bitters. My dining companion opts for a gin cocktail featuring Oleo saccharum, burnt thyme and blood orange juice, shaken and served in a gin goblet. It’s smooth and light on the palate.
The cuisine at Neuma is modern European with a smattering of other flavours thrown in for good measure. We decide to go with executive chef Abhinav Sharma’s recommendations for the food, starting with an assortment of small plates that arrive in quick succession. The New Zealand lamb chops are a worthy contender with just the right amount of seasoning, cooked sous vide and served with a side of scallion potatoes and cumin aioli. The honey-glazed chicken is moreish with a homemade barbecue sauce, chilli granola and walnut puree. My favourite, though, is the baked brie–melted cheese folded in phyllo pastry topped with truffle, parmesan and drizzled with honey for the perfect sweet-salty combination.
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The avocado mousse is silky smooth, and served with portions of green pea falafel and seeded biscuits. The chargrilled prawns are a winner! They are marinated in a simple dressing of garlic, lemon and olive oil, and served on a bed of leek puree along with tapioca crackers. Sweet and juicy, this dish ticks all the boxes. Pan-seared scallops with moilee curry and tamarind quinoa round up the small plates.
Chef Sharma’s flavours are clean on the palate and uncomplicated. The food is trendy but unpretentious at the same time. Interestingly, the vegan plates on the menu have been curated by well-known chef Rishim Sachdeva. I’m told that the menu will be changing seasonally as well.
We move on to mains shortly after, starting with the grilled harissa cauliflower. The vegetable is lightly-spiced and served on a bed of cauliflower puree and tahini, pairing well with the fresh and light couscous tabbouleh. The grilled chicken with potato terrine offers familiar, comforting flavours. The poached red snapper laksa is a velvety, creamy dish but lacks some of the punch that you expect from Southeast Asian fare. The crispy polenta steak, another vegetarian option, is a little lacklustre compared to the other plates on the table.
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By this point, the energy starts picking up as the music becomes more upbeat, and guests start slinking in, dressed to the nines. With foot-tapping music for company, we end the meal with the sticky toffee pudding–something I was sceptical of trying. But the restaurant manages to get it just right with a pool of custard cutting through the sweetness of toffee and dates. The chocolate cheesecake is a comforting dish that you can spoon into, served with a side of dark chocolate soil and shortbread.
Often, with a celebrity-driven restaurant, expectations are that the food and drinks may not match up to the hype. But it’s a different case here, as design, food and the ambience flow harmoniously together. With a mood that transforms from day to night, and the opportunity to spot a celebrity or two, Neuma might just become the latest hotspot in town.
Details for Neuma:
Address: 4, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai.
Timings: Tuesday to Sunday (12.30pm to 1.30am)
Dinner seating: 7pm and 10.30pm
Price for two: INR 5,000 for two people with drinks (approximately)
For reservations, call: +91 7031483333 / 7031493333
Related: TL Reviews: A New Restaurant In BKC, Mumbai For Lovers Of Asian-Mediterranean Food
Arzoo Dina
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