Pranav Kapoor, the founder of Perfume Tourism, is on a mission to educate travellers about the rich history and culture of Kannauj through his well-curated farm-to-bottle itinerary.
From plants that wake when others sleep, from timid jasmine buds that keep their odour to themselves all day, when the sunlight dies away let the delicious secret out to every breeze that roams about.
These words by Irish poet Thomas Moore perfectly describe the charm of the night-blooming jasmine. Known as mogra in Hindi, these flowers may appear unassuming at first glance – but once they come into their own, the story begins to unfold. The heady scent emanating from the blooming buds is nothing short of addictive. Probably why it was hard for me to say goodbye to Kannauj – dubbed India’s perfume capital – after a two-day visit.
During my time in this dusty city along the banks of the river Ganges, I experienced up close and personal the traditional art of making attar (or liquid gold as some call it) that was much sought after by Mughal emperors and rich nobles. The itinerary was well-curated by eighth-generation perfumer and chef, Pranav Kapoor, who on a trip to Jaisalmer six years ago, had a ‘lightbulb moment’. As the founder of Perfume Tourism, he is on a journey to put Kannauj on the global tourism map by showcasing the city’s ancient secret of perfume-making.
“I wanted to create an experience with flavour and fragrance, with perfume tourism as the centrepiece,” he shares.
The Fragrant Haveli
After navigating through serpentine lanes captured by cows, dogs and cars, I arrived at Kapoor’s 120-year-old haveli, 24 MG Road, to a warm welcome on a sultry afternoon in June. With a jasmine garland around my neck and a refreshing jasmine-infused beverage in my hand, I was ready to begin my sojourn into the world of perfumes.
Within a few minutes, my curious eyes noticed a perfume bar and fragrance gallery set within the lobby – where glistening miniature bottles occupied a pride of place alongside vintage frames, depicting Kapoor’s family’s illustrious legacy in perfumery. Also, hard to miss were the large jars with precious pieces from Kapoor’s childhood – a means to preserve memories of some of his closest people and significant events.
“Scent and memory have an intrinsic connection. We often overlook these aspects. I have tried to capture this through the items on display – for instance, the leather purse in the jar with a typical smell of cardamom reminds me of my grandmother,” he adds.
A quick conversation later, as I headed towards the Courtyard Suite (a newly-refurbished accommodation on the ground floor), a shower of jasmine petals serenaded me in the central courtyard. Ah, the joy of being enveloped in the scent of the blooms!
Around the courtyard lay various spaces – a sprawling living room, private laboratory and bar, kitchenette, cellar bar, and a comfortable bedroom. After a quick walkthrough of all the rooms, I entered the bedroom that had walls hand-painted with motifs inspired by ancient Kannauj art. By now, my stomach was rumbling and I couldn’t wait to try out the delicacies prepared by Kapoor and his team.
Interestingly, the fragrance of jasmine was not limited to the space but also extended to the plate. The menu was influenced by North Indian, Awadhi, Khatri and global flavours. While lunch included a delectable selection of chaats from Uttar Pradesh; dinner was an exquisite seven-course meal that showcased local farm-to-table produce, pairing fragrance with each course.
From Farm to Bottle
While my experience in the haveli was fascinating, I couldn’t contain my excitement to learn all about attars during this trip – the mitti attar (the lush smell of the first rain), of course, has been written about in abundance but there are so many more!
Although Kannauj Perfumes received a GI tag in 2014, it still doesn’t feature on the itinerary of most travellers. However, I am certain an extraordinary olfactory journey like this may bring the city the attention it truly deserves!
The immersive experience kicked off early evening in lush jasmine fields, where I handpicked buds and absorbed myself in the sweet aroma of its blooms. Interestingly, the semi-open buds are the best for distillation, informed Kapoor. Once plucking was done, the delicate jasmine flowers were carefully transported to the distillery.
Shortly after dusk, Kapoor accompanied me to their family distillery filled with large, gleaming copper stills. Outside, a few workers were engaged in the manual sifting of the batch of jasmine flowers – to separate the fresh and fragrant blooms from the rest of the stock. This stock was then unloaded into huge pots, before sealing their mouths with a mixture of cotton and mud to prevent leaks. This time-honoured method is trusted, because it also regulates the temperature of the still.
The large beads of sweat trickling down my face and neck couldn’t distract me – my attention was fixated on the copper stills that released clouds of vapours to extract the perfume from the jasmine petals. Eventually, the fumes cooled and condensed to unfold the enigmatic fragrance. It was some form of wizardry, if I may say so!
While it is the age of technological innovation, the traditional process of steam distillation continues to hold significance for perfumers here, who transform flowers into precious elixir. After separating the jasmine oil, known as attar, the liquid is allowed to mature to deepen its fragrance.
Lingering Scents of Kannauj’s Perfumes
Upon returning to the haveli, Kapoor took me through the many fragrances on display in the perfume bar. I felt like a child in a candy store, experimenting with different fragrances that resonated with my personality. Never did I imagine that a visit to Kannauj would fill me with gratitude and respect for the many generations of perfumers, who have been relentlessly contributing to the city’s rich olfactory tradition.
Kapoor holds a similar sentiment having been brought up in this city. For him, it’s his way of carrying forward the rich legacy of his family, albeit through experiential tourism. In the near future, the young perfumer plans on organising a festival in collaboration with Uttar Pradesh Tourism to showcase Kannauj’s tradition and culture. This festival will not just feature farm tours and focus on ancient distillation methods; it will also highlight the rich culinary heritage of the region.
“Perfumers from France and Switzerland continue to come here and get enamoured by the process. There have been generations of families working here. We aim to provide a significant boost to the perfume industry and small businesses, while also putting Kannauj on the global map as a preferred tourist destination for perfume tourism,” he concludes.
Featured Image Courtesy Wallpaper Flare
Feature Image for representational purposes only
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
— How to reach Kannauj?
Kannauj is located roughly 420 kilometres from New Delhi and is accessible by road via the Yamuna-Agra-Lucknow Expressway. The closest airport is Chaudhary Charan Singh International Airport, Lucknow which is located roughly 140 kilometres away.
— Which perfume is famous in Kannauj?
Kannauj perfume, also known as Kannauj ittar, is famous in the region. These perfumes are made using flowers and natural resources like musk, camphor, and saffron. These scents are then aged in bottles made using camel skin. Notably, these perfumes don’t usually contain alcohol or other chemicals.
— Why is Kannauj famous for perfumes?
The city has been creating traditional perfumes, or ittar, for over 400 years. This historic legacy has lent the city the title of ‘India’s perfume capital.’
— Does attar or ittar expire?
No, pure attars or ittars don’t expire. They are believed to smell better with time.
