Dinner Theater Starring Chefs and Their Creations
January 17, 2014
Forget Top Chef—the best culinary theatrics are happening right under your nose. By Diana Hubbell
Published on Jan 17, 2014
Molecular-gastro wizardry and edible Nordic landscapes may come and go, but there’s no substitute for the drama of classic fare prepared and served tableside. Perhaps as a backlash against faddish foods, restaurants around Southeast Asia are going back to basics and flambéing those sauces and tossing those Caesars before your very eyes.
Take Bangkok’s Tables (Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok), long known for its truffle risotto and lobster thermidor. The restaurant has had a makeover, transforming into an old-school steakhouse where chefs in immaculate whites carve Paleolithic-looking Tomahawk chops and ignite baked Alaskas at your table. (Do order a ramekin of the rigatoni and Gruyére.) The sommelier has concocted an impressive wine list, but the theatrics are best enjoyed over one of the deadly dirty martinis—shaken at your side.
Over in Singapore, eager Instagrammers have been flooding the web with snapshots of The White Rabbit’s iconic crêpes Suzette, finished in a blaze of orange liquor. Meanwhile, in one of Hong Kong’s grande dames, Gaddi’s (The Peninsula Hong Kong) continues the same tableside service that’s made it a landmark for 60 years. The menu has evolved, but the feel is timeless.