The Overview

Updated on September 26, 2014

Niurou tang mian, or beef noodle soup, is so beloved by locals that city hall stages a festival every autumn in its honor. Originating from the mainland, it's a hearty marriage of wheat noodles and tender hunks of beef (and, if you really want to be local, meltingly soft beef tendon) in a meaty broth scented with star anise, cinnamon and, in some versions, Sichuan peppercorn. Diners add extra oomph in the form of mashed garlic and ginger, la jiao (roasted dried chilies in oil), chili bean sauce, vinegar, and tangy preserved mustard leaves. The version served at 30-year-old Laopai Niurou Lamian Da Wang, located near Taipei Main Station, is a duet of thick, ropey noodles hand-pulled every morning and a broth so complex and flavorful you'd swear it's been simmering for eons. Arrive hungry—the eatery also serves scrumptious shuijiao (boiled dumplings with minced pork and Chinese chives) and a wonderfully rustic hot-and-sour soup.
 
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