The Overview

It’s worth braving the occasionally crusty service at Setapak Teochew Restaurant for its fish balls. More often than not, fish balls have the taste and consistency of a squash ball, but here, they’re ethereally light, tender and redolent of the ocean. They’re not the only piscine draw at this 97-year-old eatery. Look out for crackly skinned, deep-fried fish cake served with piquant homemade chilli sauce and silver pomfret steamed with preserved mustard, ginger, tomatoes and sour plums. Beehoon is another specialty: wok-charred with sliced fish cake, cabbage, minced pork and cracklings, or fried crisp as a bed for squid, petite prawns and choy sum in a gingery gravy shot through with egg threads. And leave room for dessert: the restaurant began as a bakery and its flaky mooncakes (available year-round—choose from red bean, mung bean, or bean-and-preserved vegetable) are justifiably popular.

Address:
283–5 Jln. Pahang,
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Telephone: +60 3 4023 8706